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Quite simply, the best meal I have had in ages was at L'Artista Ristorante Italiano, 3891 East Hastings, Burnaby. The antipasta platter was daunting with the best calamari marinated with olive oil and lemon juice I have ever tasted, beautiful sweet fresh mussels
and shrimp, marinated artichokes, carrots, and celery, tomato with bocconcini cheese and rolled proscuitto. Than a bowl of rich lobster bisque. The osso bucco was tender and rich and complemented perfectly by house wine, Citra. The fettucine with olive and garlic, never had better. The tiramisu,
heaven in the mouth. |
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And in the cosy, but not close, dining room there was not a modicum of pretension. The service by waiter Lino Mula made you feel special and left nothing unattended. It was everything a dining experience could be. Chef-ownder Federico Murruni (pictured
below) has had L'Artista since 1992. Born in Mammola, Calabria, he studied at Milan's Stressa and cooked in Switzerland and San Tropez before coming to Canada in 1975. Here, he was chef at Francesco Alongi for two years and then
bought Al Forno in Gastown, which he operated for 11 years before moving into fine dining with L'Artista. |
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Murruni does his own shopping and prefers Yen Brothers Food Service Ltd. for his vegetables and Albion Fisheries Ltd. for his fresh seafood. Although it is a white linen service, anyone is welcome in jeans. Vegetarians have an excellent selection with linguini prima vera and gnocchi with tomato and basil being favourites. Italian cuisine doe not get much better than this. Reservations: (604) 298-8110.
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